Summers in Beijing are not for the weak. The heat envelops the city like a thick cotton blanket, heavy with humidity, dust, and the occasional aroma of grilled 串儿 chuan'r (skewers) from street vendors. For newcomers to the capital, the intensity of July may seem unrelenting. However, for those who call Beijing home, enduring the summer is less about suffering and more about rhythm — an ancient dance with the sun that incorporates herbal remedies, seasonal customs, and a deep appreciation for shade.
Let’s start with the most revered remedy: 凉茶 liángchá, or cooling tea. In local markets, you'll find large glass containers filled with barley tea, chrysanthemum tea, and 酸梅汤 suānméitāng, a tart-sweet, deep red beverage that symbolizes Beijing summers much like cicadas do. Traditionally made with smoked plums, hawthorn, rock sugar, and licorice root, this age-old drink is thought to reduce internal heat and soothe the liver. Drinking suanmeitang isn't just a refreshment; it's a way to restore balance.
Next, there’s green bean soup, a simple cold elixir offered by both grandmothers and noodle shops. Cooked with rock sugar and sometimes enhanced with dried tangerine peel, this seemingly basic soup holds significant cultural meaning — it’s a folk remedy to “clear summer heat” (祛暑 qù shǔ) grounded in traditional Chinese medicine. Locals have relied on it for generations without needing scientific validation.
Yet, the true highlight of Beijing’s summer survival toolkit is the so-called “Beijing bikini.” For those unfamiliar, this isn’t swimwear. It describes a time-honored practice where older men, and occasionally younger ones, roll their T-shirts above their bellies. With boldness, they reveal their midsections to the open air, almost challenging the sun to intensify the heat. And yes, it’s every bit as striking as it sounds.
At first glance, you might chuckle. Next, you could cringe. But during a sweltering 39 degrees Celsius heatwave, when your shirt feels glued to your back and your energy starts to fade, you'll suddenly get it. You might find yourself questioning whether these men have discovered a secret that the rest of us have yet to embrace.
For the men of the Beijing bikini crew, it's not just a method for cooling off; it's a way of life during summer. You’ll see them sitting on low stools under hutong grapevines, enjoying mung bean soup, playing cards, and fanning themselves with vintage-style paper fans. Each proudly exposed belly glistens in the sunlight, showcasing a subtle defiance against fashion standards. They offer no apologies. They don’t need to. Honestly, they might just be the coolest men in Beijing, both literally and metaphorically.
As the sun sets behind the skyline and the pavement cools, the evening stroll, or 遛弯儿 liùwǎnr, begins. Whole neighborhoods seem to come alive. Grandparents appear with folding fans and measured steps. Children light sparklers. Couples stroll hand-in-hand along the lotus-lined paths of Tiantan Park or linger by the gentle waters of Houhai. Somewhere, a bamboo flute is played. In another area, someone sets up a karaoke speaker, belting out Teresa Teng under a streetlight.
Swimming may be officially discouraged in many lakes, but it persists as a sort of urban legend shared among locals. Depending on who you ask, it’s either a rebellious secret or an accepted practice. In spots like the Liangma River, or in secluded areas near the Summer Palace, the daring and overheated slip into the water, accompanied only by dragonflies and the occasional security guard who turns a blind eye.
If all else fails, consider escaping the city entirely. A getaway to Mentougou, Miyun Reservoir, or any mountain where your phone loses service will suffice. Bring a watermelon, a deck of cards, and a companion whose presence you enjoy in the heat. Stay until the evening breeze softens and cicadas begin their rhythmic serenade.
To navigate a Beijing summer like a local, you must learn to stop resisting. Allow the heat to envelop you. Sweat a little. Sip something bitter. Lift your shirt if you're feeling adventurous. There’s a peculiar and sticky beauty in the traditions, the resilience, and the unhurried pace of a city that refuses to slow down yet somehow never rushes.
After all, you're not melting; you’re marinating.
Yes, it's warm. However, the locals have their ways to stay cool.
