Beijing has experienced numerous closures in recent years, with several long-established venues and beloved newer spots, such as Bollywood Tales, reluctantly shutting down. However, a few establishments have managed to revive themselves and flourish. One such place is the hutong wine bar, uh-huh.
Uh-huh is a wine bar run by former finance professional Sophie Zhou. This charming corner bar located at the intersection of Zhangzizhong Lu and Jiaodaokou Nanlu offers a cozy atmosphere, featuring a white brick interior, showcases filled with artisanal cheeses and cured meats, and a chalkboard behind the bar displaying a constantly changing selection of fine wines from around the globe.
The bar has become a favorite among wine enthusiasts heading to Gulou and young hutong hipsters alike. We chatted with Sophie about her drive to keep uh-huh open and thriving, her plans for the venue's future, and the contributions of their new manager, Uncle the Strange.
So uh-huh is dead, long live uh-huh! How did you manage to revive it? The day before our closing party, on November 13, Uncle the Strange came by the bar and expressed his willingness to work with me at uh-huh. I was in need of an experienced full-time manager who could handle things during my absences from Beijing.
Previously, my landlord had refused to reduce my rent or sign a new lease with me. However, on the day of the party at 7:13 PM, he suddenly called to say he would lower my rent and agree to a new contract. I was able to move forward because I had raised enough funds to cover the six months of rent required to keep the bar open.
I had felt quite pessimistic as our closing date approached since I didn’t believe I had enough to cover the necessary expenses for uh-huh. People weren’t frequenting the bar during the winter months. However, in the last few months, many patrons came out to support us, and I managed to gather enough to preserve uh-huh.
What was your initial reaction upon realizing you could remain open? Honestly, my first thought was one of worry because my staff, business partners, and customers all believed we were closing. We were preparing to finish everything off—drinking the last of the wine and consuming all the food.
I feared that when I announced our decision to stay open, people might think I had deceived them just to squeeze out more money. Thankfully, most attendees at the closing party responded positively to the announcement, and I was relieved to see that my staff and partners were also happy.
What's next for uh-huh? We will definitely host more wine events for enthusiasts in Beijing. I aim for uh-huh to become a recognized wine bar similar to a zhujingban, meaning a place where customers can enjoy high-quality wine by the glass. That's why I’m serving Champagne by the glass and will continue to select intriguing yet niche bottles that introduce people to different wines, such as Chinese Chardonnay or varieties from the New World... I want to offer patrons a selection that will pleasantly surprise them.
Can you tell me about Uncle the Strange? How did you meet, and what will he bring to the bar? Uncle the Strange is the first close friend I made in Beijing. I often visited various bars—wine bars, beer bars, cocktail bars—to unwind from my stressful day job. On one of my bar-hopping nights, I discovered Baojian, a whiskey and speakeasy cocktail bar connected to Furongji and The Bake Shop. Uncle the Strange worked there on Tuesdays and Sundays, allowing me to meet him on the Tuesday night I dropped by.
We quickly became good friends after that first encounter, and he provided me with valuable advice when I shared my plans to start uh-huh. Although he initially declined to join as a manager when we first opened, his interest has since shifted. What I admire about Uncle the Strange is his exceptional ability to deliver outstanding service to customers. He’s a fantastic bartender and an excellent sommelier. He possesses incredible talents and, while not an artist in the traditional sense, he comes across as an artist through his music taste, drink-making abilities, and sense of style. Uncle will help maintain the fun atmosphere at uh-huh while introducing interesting cocktails and good music, and he’ll occasionally play some tunes himself.
You’ve been running uh-huh for two years now. What have you learned from this experience of owning a wine bar in Beijing? I've learned a great deal from my mistakes, gradually figuring out how to operate a successful wine bar. This two-year journey has also led to deeper self-discovery. I excel at managing details and creating a homey environment where people can gather and enjoy drinks. My palate for food and wine has shown that some people resonate with my tastes, and I've noticed that patrons appreciate the service I provide.
Moreover, I've developed skills in leadership, such as managing costs and my staff.
The food and beverage scene in Beijing has been quite challenging recently, but a few businesses, such as the wine bar uh-huh, have managed to recover from a difficult period.
