Roads and driving practices are a fascinating aspect of this journey. I believe that driving habits can reflect the local culture, although I find it hard to pinpoint exactly how. A significant part of this is due to the condition of the roads and streets. As we move further from major cities, the quality of the roads deteriorates. Typically, the roads are two lanes wide and have little to no shoulder. We've encountered some wide loads, particularly with guardrails present, which makes the clearance very tight. This has often happened when passing a semi-truck hauling a Caterpillar. On switchbacks going up mountains, the uphill side features a drainage trough. If you were to veer off the road, your wheels would get stuck in that trough, making it impossible to get out without a tow truck. This limited clearance, coupled with narrow lanes, complicates tight turns since longer vehicles, like semis or our tour van, need to swing wide to avoid the trough. Passing and being overtaken is a constant occurrence, with horn signals indicating intentions. When starting to overtake a semi, a single honk is sufficient, and you proceed. If the semi spot incoming traffic, the driver honks loudly, allowing you to pull back in. If a vehicle approaches an intersection with the road you’re on, one honk warns them not to pull out. It’s common for people to stop in the lane for various reasons, and a honk signals that you are about to pass them. Turns across oncoming traffic happen without stopping traffic; they simply weave around or halt to make way for the turn. Animals roam freely, and we've had to honk to disperse herds of goats, cows, and yaks. Certain road areas get washed out frequently; full repairs are often delayed, requiring drivers to carefully navigate created paths. All roads are quite bumpy; even those near the city that are paved with cement are still rough. The further we are from the city, the tougher the roads get, with many bumps being quite jarring, suggesting a visit to a chiropractor may be needed upon return. Speed limits are enforced by monitors that track entry and exit points of a designated 10-mile stretch, capturing license plates and mailing tickets. Our van paused today before the second checkpoint because we arrived too early and wanted to avoid a ticket. During our trip to Everest Base Camp, the driver honked to alert a backhoe that was about to pull out, but for some unknown reason, the warning was ignored. The bus swerved to the opposite side of the road, dangerously close to the edge as the driver returned us to safety. With no shoulder and a building right against the drainage trough, it looked like a harsh encounter was imminent, especially since I was sitting by the window and had a close-up view; I feared I'd collide with the building. After approximately 20 minutes, we continued on our journey with only minor damage to the front of the bus. This was the Eco Bus to Base Camp and not our tour van. I hadn't realized the remoteness of Kailash when I booked this tour. As we traveled, we seemed to be on a typical tour route, continually running into the same individuals I met at the airport, as well as recognizing familiar faces. Today marked a change in that pattern, as the other groups returned towards Lhasa while we pressed on. We saw herds of wild yaks, nomadic herders with their tents, and the landscape transitioned into grassy plains dotted with vast barren hills, some of which were sandy. Restroom facilities have become scarcer, prompting us to make natural stops along the road. Even when we reached a standard toilet, the guide advised us to go behind it due to its poor condition. When I went around back, I found discarded toilet paper and open piles of feces, as most people preferred to avoid the unpleasantness inside. We also spotted our first group of wild donkeys. The first female, who seemed to struggle with the altitude, appears to be feeling better now. A young girl from Denmark is doing better with the altitude but now thinks she has food poisoning. The Indian man from Calgary is having a tougher time, remaining in the van during stops and frequently using oxygen. He plans to go to the hospital when we arrive tonight. Tonight will be our last night in a motel before starting the Kora. I’ll arrange my bag to minimize weight. Some participants are hiring porters, while one is hiring a horse. I’ve left excess items in Lhasa, mostly things needed for Italy. I’ll reduce my load further tonight and can leave any extras on the bus. I was warned there wouldn’t be coffee and therefore bought instant coffee last night. The food available is limited and not very appealing, so bringing supplies is advisable. I found some nut-based protein bars and will look for dried fruit and hopefully some beef sticks tonight. While shopping last night, I came across packable protein
Roads and driving behaviors are a fascinating aspect of this journey. I tend to think that driving styles are indicative of culture, although I can't quite define why. One factor is simply the quality of the roads and streets. As we move away from urban areas, the road conditions deteriorate. Generally, the roads are two-lane with little to no shoulder. We have encountered a few wide loads, and particularly when guardrails are present, the clearance is very limited. This situation has mostly occurred when meeting a semi-truck transporting a caterpillar. On switchbacks while ascending mountains, the uphill side features a drainage channel. If a vehicle strays off the road, its tires would be caught, making it impossible to exit without a tow truck. This reduced clearance, paired with narrow lanes, complicates tight turns, as long vehicles like a semi or our tour van must swing widely to keep their wheels from entering the drainage trough.