Blessed be thee, oh magnificent summer. In Greek mythology, the arrival of spring and summer was attributed to Persephone’s yearly return from the Underworld, where her mother, Demeter, caused the earth to flourish and thrive. Well, dear reader, I find myself thriving in summer too, primarily because it usually means indulging in copious amounts of ice cream.
Authentic ice cream is a relatively new addition to Beijing’s culinary scene, which has been evolving over the past few years. We certainly lacked exciting choices in the past, but things have changed significantly! Hence, I decided to create a blog post to share my discoveries. Listen out for the ice cream van in this guide to frozen treats in Beijing, and while it's true that the most tantalizing scoops are often on the pricier side, I will also present you with some affordable and decent options. Apply some sunscreen and join me in this delightful and sweet venture. I scream, you scream, we all scream for ice cream (groan)!
The Downtown Strip
In recent years, Taikoo Li has become home to a variety of trendy cafes and brands setting up charming stalls along the pavement that runs next to a few embassies and the old Sanlitun Bar Street. These venues are usually bustling with a diverse mix of cool kids, tourists, locals, and office workers. For ice cream enthusiasts, the celebration begins at Il Laboratorio del Gelato (冰淇淋实验室), a charming white and baby blue shop that often features special items on their regular menu. Currently popular is the DuangDuang (RMB 58), where your chosen scoop sits atop the usual cone before the cheerful clerk adds a generous dollop of frozen heavy cream and an edible cat figurine crafted from “coconut milk marshmallow.”
Not convinced yet? Just a short walk away, théATRE (茶聚场) offers a delicately curated quartet: Rose White Peony (玫瑰白牡丹茶), Earl Grey Hazelnut (棒果格雷伯爵茶), Mango Sorbet (浓情芒果雪芭), and a hipper Yuzu Lemongrass Rooibos (柚香路易波士). Each cup costs RMB 56, but savvy patrons know that the price drops to RMB 31 on Dianping. If you’re feeling creative, check out Tang Suo (瑭所) for their Chinese Flowering Crabapple Ice Cream (RMB 38, 中式冰淇淋-海棠冰). It boasts an impressive name for a dessert that balances ice cream and confectionery, thanks to its wafer shaped like the Malus spectabilis.
But wait, there’s more! Jiu Shi Ye (九十葉) and the classic Venchi are also noteworthy. The former offers five varieties of matcha ice cream – the higher the number, the more intense the flavor. Following Aristotle’s golden mean, I enjoyed their Matcha No. 3 (11.9 percent in intensity), which hit the spot, as well as their Goji-Mulberry Fusion (不老莓桑葚). Quality ingredients, a refreshing mix of flavors, and a well-balanced matcha taste made it a treat worth ordering again! However, I must apologize to Venchi. In my memory, they were once that beloved spot that could charge high prices when proper ice cream was scarce in the 'Jing.
On a recommendation from my work bestie, I visited the Taikoo Li branch of the Italian food company founded by Mr. Silviano Venchi in 1878 and discovered they still hold their own in the ice cream game. For RMB 59, a Mini Cup became the ideal lunchtime treat with two scoops of my choice, without risking a poor decision. The staff at Venchi generously offered samples of every flavor that piqued my interest before I selected Mascarpone & Fermented Figs and an unforgettable Apricot and Brown Sugar. This flavor is new on the menu, and I hope it remains. Each spoonful revealed subtle notes and a tangy touch, ensuring it never veered into sickly sweetness – truly a delight.
If cones aren't your thing, you can dip your cup in chocolate, hazelnut, or raspberry grains for an additional RMB 15, although I don’t find it necessary. Not when you receive a free milk chocolate coin. Take your time and ponder if you should splurge on any other item from the shop’s lavish offerings. After all, as Oscar Wilde once said, the only way to resist temptation is to give in to it.
The Hidden Bonus: A bit off the usual path in Sanlitun, you'll find PostPost, where you can enjoy kakigori, the popular Japanese shaved ice dessert. Peruse their treasure trove of zines, edgy magazines, and unique records, then choose from a trio
Today was my birthday, and our plans changed, likely due to the weather, so we decided to postpone our visit to the Terra Cotta Warriors until tomorrow. The weather was sunny and fairly warm, with temperatures in the 90s, but it was relatively dry. We began our day around 9 am and visited the Xi'an City Walls, which are known to be among the best-preserved city walls in China. They were enormous and quite impressive, with options to rent bikes for a seemingly endless ride! We managed to walk about 2 km of the total 15 or 16 km, leaving much more to explore.
Tuesday, June 24th marked our final full day in Xi'an. We began our day at 8:30 under cloudy skies that brought the temperatures down to the high 70s, accompanied by a lovely breeze that was truly refreshing. Our first destination was a half-day visit to the Terra Cotta Warriors. I have shared a separate blog featuring only photos from that visit, so here I'll just mention that it was an incredible experience and encourage you to check out that blog!
Kavin Jay is set to perform in the capital on June 27 and 28.
One or two photographs of the Terra Cotta Warriors simply can't capture the essence of this incredible location, so I'm planning to create a blog showcasing all the images of the warriors—whether they are preserved, undergoing preservation, or the throngs of visitors. Our guide, Summer, mentioned that as many as 100,000 people visit the Warriors each day! It was incredibly crowded, but thankfully, the entire site has been air-conditioned since two years ago! Those who visited before that, particularly in the summer, can only recall the crowds, heat, and humidity! Nevertheless, it’s absolutely worth it, as the warriors are truly an astonishing "eighth wonder of the world."
Cones, cups, sticks, and tubs, oh my!