Pioneering New Paths in China: Kunming - Emerging Adventurers

      07/21/2025 - 07/21/2025

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      The two-hour journey from Dali to Kunming showcased some of the most vivid, picturesque rural landscapes I’ve ever seen through a train window. Aside from the clusters of geometric, flat-roof homes, it felt more akin to Provence than to China. The time flew by as I admired the mesmerizing quilt of rectangular fields in vibrant greens. There were no mountains in sight, only a ring of gentle hills on the horizon that faded into the low-lying clouds. Initially, we had planned to stay in Kunming, Yunnan's capital and largest city, for several days, but our visit was shortened to one night due to a change in Cleo's camp schedule. I was really excited to begin exploring the city since we arrived and dropped off our bags in the high-rise apartment Mei Ling had reserved on her Chinese app, and it was only three in the afternoon. We found ourselves in a lively commercial district on the southern side of the city center, a bustling area alive with vibrant street markets along a network of pedestrian pathways. The first unique spot we discovered was Shengli Square, featuring a tall monument commemorating China's victory over Japan in World War II, along with a pair of unusual buildings curving around the plaza's edge, tapering down to just one room wide. They strongly reminded me of some structures I had encountered in Genoa, although I couldn't pinpoint exactly where. I discovered that these buildings housed a boutique hotel named Ruo'an Duiyuelou. It was evident that Kunming was a city where people heavily relied on two-wheeled transportation, primarily bicycles and scooters, which frequently had their own dedicated lanes at the roadside. It reminded me of Quanzhou, but it seemed safer and more orderly.

      I hadn't pinpointed many specific attractions within Kunming to explore. Despite the metro area having over five million residents, little of the city has been preserved from the imperial era, and there aren’t any tourist-reconstructed neighborhoods. It was quite a shift in pace and atmosphere compared to Lijiang and Dali, but we had already had enough of China's domestic tourism scene and looked forward to experiencing the genuine rhythms of a modern city. Kunming is home to a particularly beautiful and famous central park called Cuihu, or Green Lake. Originally a reservoir for the city, paths and bridges were added in the early twentieth century. Vendors lined the primary walkways that crossed from one side of the park to the other, and traditional-style halls and pavilions occupied the little islands dotting the lake. Of course, there were the ubiquitous paddle boats available for anyone wanting to navigate the lake at their leisure.

      We exited the park from its western side searching for a place to dine. I had noted a few options from my research, but none of the more appealing ones were within walking distance. It was still a commercial area, so I expected it would be easy to find somewhere, but all the choices seemed quite uninspiring, especially with only one night in Kunming. By sheer luck, we came across a lovely restaurant specializing in Jingpo cuisine, another vibrant ethnic group from Yunnan. Jingpo dishes resemble Burmese fare more than typical Chinese cuisine and include items like ground chicken served in bamboo tubes and herb salads. We ordered an array of dishes, all generally delicious and quite distinct from anything we'd tried before. After leaving the restaurant, we realized we were right next to the entrance of Yunnan University, prompting us to explore the campus. The campus was situated on a steep hillside with wide staircases leading up to the university buildings above. A large group of young Caucasians had gathered on the steps, and I quickly deduced they were part of a foreign exchange program. From snippets of their conversation, I gathered they were German or possibly Swiss or Austrian. They appeared to be rehearsing for a welcoming ceremony, and most looked somewhat confused by the instructions their Chinese liaison was loudly giving over a megaphone. They seemed eager and energetic, albeit a bit overwhelmed by the unfamiliar situation. At first, they ignored us as we observed from above, but eventually, the Chinese individual gestured for me to stop filming. It was a captivating scene and a great reminder that in China, you never know what unique sight or experience might await beyond any random doorway.

      It wasn’t a long walk from the university to another sight on our short list. Yuantong Temple, constructed over a thousand years ago during the Nanzhao Kingdom, has undergone several rebuilds and expansions. We strolled along Yuantong Jie, a busy commercial street extending east from Cuihu, where a blend of traditionally-styled and modern buildings lined the road. We arrived at the temple just as it was closing for the day, and the staff member locking the door refused to let us in, even for

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