I’ve never paid much attention to the number of countries we've traveled to, even though that tends to be significant for many travelers. I find myself more interested in the variety of distinct places we've explored, although tracking those is far more challenging. National borders are frequently political constructs that only loosely relate to the diverse cultures and societies within them. When Yugoslavia divided into six nations, did those who had visited all six suddenly become more well-traveled while remaining at home? If Scotland had seceded from the United Kingdom, would everyone who had been there feel a swell of pride for adding another country to their collections? I prefer to explore new regions of Italy, Brazil, or China rather than experience a first trip to a mundane Caribbean locale like the Bahamas, which wouldn’t offer anything novel compared to my experiences in Jamaica or Trinidad. I feel a greater thrill when arriving in a new province of China compared to visiting most new countries, as I am more confident I will encounter completely new and captivating experiences. This mindset accompanied us as we touched down in Lijiang, marking the first stop on my inaugural visit to Yunnan Province.
From the plane, I noticed significant contrasts between Lijiang and previous Chinese cities we had visited. Rather than skyscrapers, I saw clusters of quaint two or three-story white buildings adorned with traditional tiled roofs that had upturned eaves. This architectural style arose from the influence of local Naxi culture on common Han Chinese design. Although I struggled to frame good photos from the airplane window, I managed to capture some images from the taxi that drove us towards the edge of the old town.
Lijiang is a city with about a million residents, but all the attractions we were interested in lay in the beautifully restored old town on the eastern side. An earthquake devastated much of the city in 1996, and true to the Chinese style, the old town was reconstructed and modernized to maximize both cultural significance and commercial appeal. A hotel employee welcomed us at the entrance of the old town with a cart for our luggage, guiding us through the cobblestone pedestrian streets lined with shops selling snacks and other items that would entice visitors.
I had selected the Xilu Xiaoxie Inn on Booking due to its excellent reviews and central location in the old town. The hotel was situated on a quiet alley leading to one of the busiest pedestrian streets. We had two rooms that were noticeably more spacious and well-appointed compared to our previous accommodations in China. The sliding screen doors and warm honey-toned wood showcased traditional Naxi design. Yunnan is noted as China’s most ethnically diverse province, with twenty-five recognized minority groups. The Naxi people constitute the dominant group in the Lijiang area, believed to have migrated to Yunnan from Tibet around two millennia ago.
Having dropped off our bags, we ventured back into the pedestrian maze of the old town, which had noticeably grown more crowded. The historic center was interwoven with canals crafted by medieval Naxi engineers who redirected runoff from nearing Jade Dragon Snow Mountain to distribute fresh water throughout the neighborhoods. Arched stone bridges and wooden plank walkways spanned the waterways, providing an ideal backdrop for Chinese tourists posing in rented traditional Naxi attire.
The main streets and squares were bustling with families and groups of young people. We were well into China’s summer vacation, which typically lasts through July and August. I had anticipated a more tranquil atmosphere in Lijiang, but it had undeniably become a favored destination for domestic tourists. As usual, I felt less perturbed by the crowds since they were predominantly fellow Chinese rather than Americans or Europeans. Similar to our previous post-COVID trip to China in 2024, I didn’t spot a single Caucasian face in the throngs. I also didn’t mind the old town’s lack of authenticity; despite its theme park vibe, it radiated charm with glowing recessed lighting. Preserving China’s ancient wooden structures is often more challenging than maintaining Europe’s brick and stone buildings. I felt satisfied with the atmosphere of the restored buildings, whose ground floors housed restaurants and shops.
For dinner, Mei Ling discovered a restaurant serving Naxi hot pot, which included thinly sliced yak meat along with various mushrooms and roots. Besides a few unique ingredients, it resembled the hot pot dinners we had enjoyed in Chengdu and Chongqing. The restaurant added an element of fun with uniquely shaped dishes for some ingredients. The hexagonal woven trays symbolized the harmony of the six directions: north, south, east, west, Heaven, and Earth, while the flower petal-shaped plates conveyed freshness and abundance.
On our way back to the hotel, the crowd had thinned, allowing us to explore calmer side streets where we could appreciate the intricate decorations and vibrant landscaping of the old town. Flagstones sparkled under the bright light streaming from shops, and flower petals floated gently down the canals. I was reminded of Jinli Ancient Street in Chengdu, but Lijiang
I have never placed much emphasis on the total number of countries I’ve visited, even though this is significant for many travelers. Instead, I am much more interested in the variety of unique locations I’ve experienced, even if that’s harder to monitor. National borders often reflect political decisions that have a fragile connection to the rich cultures and societies within them. When Yugoslavia divided into six countries, did those who had traveled to all six prior to this separation suddenly become more seasoned travelers just by staying home? If Scotland had separated from the United Kingdom, would all who had visited feel a boost of pride for adding another country to their list? I would prefer to explore new regions of Italy, Brazil, or China rather than make my first trip to a nondescript Caribbean destination like the Bahamas, which wouldn’t present anything I haven't already encountered in Jamaica or Trinidad. I find that I feel more thrilled when I arrive in a new province of China than when visiting most new countries because I am more confident that I will have completely new and intriguing experiences. That was the mindset I had as we touched down in Lijiang, our first destination in my debut visit to Yunnan province.