07/17/2025 - 07/18/2025
View Asia 2025 on zzlangerhans's travel map. After a long day at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, it was refreshing to return to our base in Lijiang's old town, with a few hours left to explore and find dinner. This was our third day, but we hadn’t seen much of the town since we had been focused on the surrounding areas. Despite recognizing that we were observing a reconstructed and reimagined old town rather than original preserved structures, I couldn't help but admire the craftsmanship and the harmony of the winding alleys. It would have been easy to overlook the small details contributing to this antiquated ambiance—dark bricks, wooden shutters, and slender trees. Alongside one street, polished boulders seemed to have been left by an ancient glacier’s retreat. Nightfall arrived quickly, but the flagstone paths remained illuminated by lamps and strategically placed recessed lighting. The light shimmered off the wooden walls and the vibrant streamers hanging from frameworks above the paths. We passed a temple whose outer walls were adorned with colorful hearts inscribed with the prayers and wishes of visitors. In another alley, a group of guitarists played for a relaxed crowd sitting outdoors on mats and folding chairs, sipping beer. As the evening continued, we began to look at the nearby restaurants in hopes of finding a suitable place for dinner. Although many appeared inviting, their reviews on Chinese apps were consistently poor. Almost all were low-quality tourist traps set in beautiful surroundings. Mei Ling discovered a couple of promising options, but navigating through the alleys proved challenging, and by the time we located our targets, they were fully booked. Our final effort took us outside the northern gate of the old town, marked by an ornate and brightly lit pailou. Again, the restaurant we sought was either elusive or nonexistent, so we opted for the nearest acceptable restaurant. It was a very local establishment with minimal decor, a stark contrast to the enchanting atmosphere of the old town. The food met our expectations—adequate but forgettable. We reentered the old town, where the tourist restaurants were now bustling despite their poor reviews. One large restaurant was situated on an artificial island surrounded by a moat. Water vapor from hidden pipes veiled the water's surface, while multi-colored tiers of flowers enveloped the dining area. It was a design masterpiece that surpassed anything I'd seen in the West, set in a Chinese city many Westerners have never heard of. We stumbled upon an observation area with lovely views of the old town's golden lights. In the distance, a bright pagoda atop a tall hill caught my eye, and I realized it was Lion Hill, which was on my list of Lijiang attractions. Had it been a couple of hours earlier, we might have headed that way, but the kids were already worn out. Lion Hill would have to await our visit until the following day.
On our last day in Lijiang, we had only four hours to spend in the old town before our afternoon train to Dali. We rose early and left our luggage at the front desk, heading off in a direction that led us away from the main commercial center, where we discovered some intriguing alleys and canals we hadn't previously seen. Most of the shops had yet to open at eight in the morning. After the bland dinner the previous evening, we were eager to have a memorable final meal in Lijiang. We chose a restaurant based solely on its curb appeal rather than relying on an app and discovered they served a Yunnan specialty called crossing-the-bridge noodles. This dish features a boiling chicken and pork soup, with other ingredients provided uncooked or partially cooked on a separate platter. Diners then mix in the noodles and other components to the soup, which cooks them thoroughly within minutes. The dish's name is derived from a local legend about a devoted wife who crossed a bridge daily to bring her husband food, keeping the solid ingredients separate from the soup to avoid sogginess. Our bowls were presented on a platter shaped like a bridge as a tribute to the story. The soup was delightful and a fun experience for the kids, marking our best restaurant meal in Lijiang.
The entrance to the Mu family mansion is located right in the heart of the old town. The Mu family led the Naxi people from medieval times until the end of imperial China in 1911. Their family residence occupied a substantial area at the base of Lion Hill, which was largely destroyed during the Qing Dynasty due to warfare. After a devastating earthquake largely leveled Lijiang in 1996, the civil authorities opted to reconstruct the Mu mansion as it might have appeared in its prime. As is often the case, the Chinese view history liberally, and there is no guarantee of this modern estate's authenticity. The compound comprises a series of ornate buildings aligned on a linear axis. The first structure is Y
07/17/2025 - 07/18/2025 View Asia 2025 on zzlangerhans's travel map.
