Pioneering Discoveries in China: Lijiang Ancient Town - Emerging Adventurers

      07/17/2025 - 07/18/2025

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      After a long day at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, it was refreshing to return to our base in Lijiang's old town, where we had a few hours to explore and find dinner. This was our third day, but we hadn’t explored much of the town since we spent our time in surrounding areas. Although I realized I was witnessing a revamped version of the old town rather than authentically preserved structures, I couldn’t help but admire the craftsmanship and the charm of the winding alleys. It would have been easy to overlook the intricate details that created this weathered ambiance—the dark bricks, wooden shutters, and slender trees. Along one street, polished boulders seemed as though they had been left by a retreating glacier from eons past. Night fell quickly, but the flagstone paths were still illuminated by lamps and cleverly placed recessed lighting. The glow reflected off the wooden walls and vibrant streamers strung above the paths. We passed a temple draped in colorful hearts inscribed with the prayers and wishes of visitors. In another alley, a group of guitar players entertained a relaxed crowd seated on mats and folding chairs, sipping on beer.

      As evening progressed, we started to scan the nearby restaurants, hoping to find a suitable dinner spot. While many appeared inviting, their reviews on Chinese apps were consistently poor. Almost all were low-quality tourist traps set in beautiful surroundings. Mei Ling discovered a couple of promising options, but it was challenging to navigate the alleys, and when we finally located them, they were fully booked. Our last attempt took us outside the northern gate of the old town, marked by an ornate and brightly lit pailou. Once again, the restaurant we sought was elusive or did not exist, so we opted for the nearest acceptable eatery. It was a local venue with minimal decor, vastly different from the otherworldly atmosphere of the old town. The food met our expectations—passable but forgettable. We dove back into the old town where the tourist restaurants were now bustling, poor reviews notwithstanding. One large restaurant was situated on an artificial island encircled by a moat. Water vapor from hidden pipes veiled the water’s surface, surrounded by vividly colored tiers of flowers enveloping the dining area. It was a design marvel that surpassed anything I had seen in the West, located in a Chinese city few Westerners know of. We stumbled upon an observation area with delightful views of the golden lights of the old town. In the distance, a bright pagoda on a high hill caught my eye—it was Lion Hill, a sight I had planned to visit. Had it been a couple of hours earlier, we might have made our way there, but the kids were already fatigued. Lion Hill would have to wait for another day.

      On our final day in Lijiang, we only had four hours to spend in the old town before our afternoon train to Dali. We woke up early and left our luggage at the front desk. Departing in a direction away from the main commercial hub, we encountered some fascinating little alleys and canals we hadn’t seen before. Most shops were still closed at eight in the morning. After the previous evening's lackluster dinner, we were determined to seek out a memorable final meal in Lijiang. Choosing a place based on curb appeal rather than an app, we noticed they offered a Yunnan specialty called crossing-the-bridge noodles. The dish comprises a boiling chicken and pork broth, with other ingredients provided uncooked or partially cooked on a separate platter. Diners then add the noodles and other elements to the soup, allowing them to cook within minutes. The name originates from a local legend of a loyal wife who crossed a bridge daily to deliver food to her husband, keeping the solids separate from the soup to avoid them becoming soggy. Our bowls of ingredients were served on a platter designed like a bridge, honoring the tale. The soup was delicious and entertaining for the kids, marking our best meal in Lijiang.

      The entrance to the Mu family mansion is right in the heart of the old town. The Mu family led the Naxi from medieval times until the end of imperial China in 1911. Their residence covered a vast area at the base of Lion Hill and was largely destroyed in conflicts during the Qing Dynasty. After a devastating earthquake damaged much of Lijiang in 1996, local authorities opted to reconstruct the Mu mansion to resemble its former glory. As is often the case, the Chinese interpret history flexibly, and there is no assurance of the authenticity of this contemporary version of the estate. The estate consisted of a series of elaborately constructed buildings aligned in a linear fashion. The first was Yishi Hall, serving as a council room for official meetings between the Mu ruler, known as the Tusi,

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