Oh my gosh!
28.09.2025 - 28.09.2025
Pavel, a 62-year-old Indian man from Calgary, went to the hospital upon our arrival at the hotel and was taken by ambulance to a lower elevation. The girl from Indonesia is still managing and has hired a horse to ride the Kora instead of walking. Other than that, we are eager to continue. For some reason, the initial 6 KM of the Kora is not usually hiked; people are transported by bus to a starting point. Five of us chose to hike it as well, and we departed the hotel on foot at 7:00 AM. We walked through town and picked up the trail using our headlamps for illumination. The others will take the bus, and we will likely meet up at the bus drop-off. During the first 6 km, we paused about halfway to check our oxygen levels. Mine was at 85%, which pleased me. I breathe heavily, but I’m alright. The girl from Indonesia had a heart rate of 130 from our slow pace, which shows how much the altitude affects us all. Last night, the hotel had oxygen bubblers on the walls to increase the room's oxygen concentration, and I slept very well compared to previous nights. At 9:00 AM, we reached the bus stop, and the other half of our group had already departed, which is fine. The five of us generally get along well and tend to stick together. We met our guide, Kunchok, and began the usual hike. It was a slow and steady pace with frequent breaks for photos and to catch our breath. We stopped for lunch around 2 PM at the first available spot. Sometimes they serve rice, but today the only option was noodle cups. They brought us our cups, and once we opened them, they brought a pan of steaming hot water from two centrally located pots boiling over a stove fueled by yak dung. A thermos of hot tea was available for sharing. Sitting was a relief, and the noodles, being the only option, seemed reasonable given their high carb and salt content. It is cold, and we are all bundled up in warm layers. Unfortunately, Tony forgot to apply sunscreen and looked quite sunburned at lunch. The UV levels here are high. I used SPF 100 and think I managed well, although I was fully covered to stay warm. I reapplied at lunch. After lunch, we continued hiking, which was tougher as we were getting tired and the elevation was taking its toll. We stayed within sight of each other and walked slowly. The views are breathtaking, making it hard not to stop continuously for photos. Interactions with people on the trail are brief and interesting. Some ask for pictures with us, and we want pictures with some of them. There is trail and roadwork being done in preparation for next season, the year of the Horse, which will draw huge crowds. We have encountered many pilgrims following the trail in a prostrate manner. I’ll post a photo, but it’s worth watching a video of it. We are walking around the base of Mt Kailash, and day one was tough. Day two will be the hardest, with a significant elevation gain and longer distance. We will depart our hostel at 6 AM while it's still dark, and the guide expects us to reach our next stop around 7 AM. I’m stiff and sore like the others, but I feel confident. I have power and a signal here; I suppose being at 5000 feet has its advantages for signal strength. As I write this, I took a serious bathroom break, which involved going down the stairs, outside about 60 feet, then turning right for another 50 feet. They are filthy, rectangular floor-style outhouses that are almost full. However, this one was at least bearable, and I had a successful visit, whew. With sore legs, it was more challenging than usual. We have a fantastic view of Mt Kailash from here, so instead of going back to my dorm room with the five of us bunked together, I sat in the sun, facing the mountain, and did some quiet meditation. I feel sore, tired, and extremely happy.
Posted by jamesboyles
09:44
Archived in China
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Oh my goodness!
